In The Media

There are plenty of places to spend big on a night out at a sushi bar in this city, but if you’re looking for something a little more chill — and perhaps, a little less traditional — then this is your spot. Chef Eric Aplin worked at Robin, Akikos, and the now-closed Ichi before opening his own spot. The omakase includes a parade of nigiri that evokes diverse flavors like sweet onion, olive oil, and blue cheese. Plus, there’s a full omakase menu for vegetarian diners, too, meaning you can bring just about anyone along for the ride. 

In terms of omakase options in the city, Chīsai Sushi Club keeps things relatively affordable offering 13 courses for $90, 17 courses for $120, plus a $70 vegetarian option. Chef and owner Erik Aplin worked at Ichi and brought an inventive approach to the restaurant’s former space — think, seared King salmon nigiri with nori butter, fat tuna, and uni temaki, and, as a non-sushi supplement, creamy uni carbonara.

About a month after announcing plans to take over the matchbox-sized former Ichi Sushi space, chef Erik Aplin is ready to welcome diners to Chīsai Sushi Club beginning September 7. Aplin’s debut restaurant will bring relatively affordable omakase dining to the Bernal Heights neighborhood, as well as a full menu for vegetarian diners. Aplin formerly worked at some of San Francisco’s favorite sushi restaurants including Akiko’s and Robin, and also served as Ichi Sushi’s chef de cuisine for a number of years, making Chīsai a sort of homecoming for the chef.

In 2013, even though I could not afford it (not like there was a time when I could afford it), I saved up my money and got a reservation at Sushi Nakazawa soon after it opened. It felt important, like witnessing the launch of a spaceship, or a president’s victory speech after a long war. I remember laughing with my partner and other patrons as we got far too drunk on our paired sake, the wide-eyed looks and guttural moans we gave each other after each course — melty fatty tuna and a scallop that tasted like it lived in a bath of sugar. The laughter and — god, really? — applause with which we all received chef Daisuke Nakazawa, who appeared at the end to serve the tamago that made him famous. Maybe it’s the benefit of hindsight, but it felt like something was beginning.

The pandemic hit Bernal Heights hard, knocking out restaurants and small businesses one by one.

Among the casualties was the longtime neighborhood staple Ichi Sushi, a postage stamp-sized omakase joint. Now, a new restaurant has risen from Ichi’s ashes, one that is both familiar and distinctive with its former chef de cuisine, Erik Aplin, at the helm.

We miss Ichi Sushi and husband-wife owners Tim and Erin Archuleta, who ran the cozy Outer Mission/Bernal Heights restaurant from 2006 until its pandemic-forced closure in 2020. But some spaces — blessedly — get into the right hands.

Known for its approachable omakase and tight menu of rolls and small plates, Ichi Sushi went dark when the pandemic hit and announced its permanent closure in June 2020. But one year later, there’s good news for the Bernal Heights neighborhood: the space has a new tenant who plans to continue the legacy of quality sushi at 3369 Mission Street. Chef and owner Erik Aplin expects to open Chīsai Sushi Club in September, reviving the 500-square-foot restaurant with an infusion of handrolls and sake. It’ll be a sort of homecoming for Aplin, who worked with Ichi Sushi owner Tim Archuleta as chef de cuisine until 2015, in addition to having spent time at standout SF sushi restaurants Akiko’s and Robin.